Nathaniel Coleman’s New FA: Power of the Psych

Video by Ben Nielson / When Nathaniel Coleman first scoped out the textured edges on a stately project boulder in the Swell, he thought the line might go at V9 or so. That grade began to creep up to double digits as he and Ben Tresco started working with the sub-par …

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Off-Season Recharge: Tendon TLC

Story by Zoë Zulauf Ware / Sure, you may have treated yourself to a few chocolate eggs that “fell” into your basket at the grocery store, but when was the last time you did something nice for your finger tendons? Despite the recent blanketing of snow, sooner or later you’ll be playing piano …

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Bouldering Is For Everyone

Video by Jon Vickers / Here at Momentum, we welcome seasoned pros, never-have-I-evers, dirtbags, recreationalists, training fiends, weekend warriors, grandparents, toddlers, and everyone in between. No matter what your background in climbing is, we know you’ll find a spot that’s just right for you in our community, because after all… Bouldering Is For …

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Momentum Silver Street Opening Set

Video by Jon Vickers / When you set a gang of some of the best routesetters in the American West loose on a gym full of blank climbing walls, the best way to describe it is “kids in a candy store.” Whether you’re trying out bouldering for the first time, sussing out sequences …

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Momentum Katy’s Route Setters

Video by Jon Vickers / With the opening of Momentum Katy, a new team of route setters is bringing Momentum’s vision of innovation, authenticity, and community-building to climbers in Texas. Amin Abbasi, Phillip Symons, Kenny Benson, and Head Route Setter John Oungst work in an energetic, collaborative environment to create …

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Training Finger Strength: How to Hangboard (Video)

Jon Vickers / Climbing is unlike any other sport in that it emphasises finger strength in such a dramatic way. Not only do we need finger strength to simply hold on to the rock, but it drastically changes our ability to pull to the next hold. Even if you have …

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Train to Send: What is Strength?

by Jon Vickers / What is Strength? Strength can be defined as many different things, but when it comes to climbing, most people refer to finger strength and lock-off strength. This ability to squeeze, pull and hold body positions is critical for moving ourselves up a wall, but ‘strength’ is …

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Momentum’s Train to Send: Series Intro

by Jon Vickers / The Dreaded Plateau Remember when you learned to keep your arms straight or push with your legs? Maybe you learned to control your breathing, loosen your grip or just turn your hips and made a huge jump in climbing ability. You may have even jumped a …

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The Millcreek Training Deck

by Nik Berry / Many climbers have preconceived notions of training. Climbing is filled with great people, uplifting attitudes (well…..I guess that is debatable), lightheartedness and a supportive atmosphere. From what I have gathered speaking to people about training, they believe training will negate these positive characteristics. I understand this coming …

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