Trench Warfare, Net Style

Story by Mason Earle / There is a circus net that lives in my attic. It’s 50 feet long and twenty feet wide, made from cheap paracord and old climbing ropes. I built it specifically for climbing––like a giant crash pad for free soloing. My original vision was to use …

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Trip Report: Back to Bishop

Story by Mason Earle / My partner Nik and I were 4 pitches from the top of El Cap, crammed together at an exposed belay below the final hard pitch of the new free route we’ve been working to establish. It was the end of our fall season, and the …

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Winter Destination: Big Bend Boulders

by Jon Vickers / Drive Time: 3.5 hours Rock Type: Sandstone Discipline: Bouldering Grades: Sandbagged Camping: Across Road The skiers and snowboarders are rejoicing, but as the snow falls, local bouldering becomes more and more of a challenge. No doubt someone is out in Little Cottonwood with a heater and …

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Nikki Visits Peru

by Jon Vickers / Sometimes it is easy to forget that the access we have to recreation is special. Our ability to play outside is greatly improved by our proximity to the Wasatch, our access to indoor gyms and the expendable incomes that we take for granted. We can learn …

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The Heart Route

By Mason Earle / While free climbing El Cap’s Golden Gate in 2009, I spotted a system of beautiful cracks and corners leading out of the left side of the massive heart-shaped recess in the middle El Cap’s southwest face. The steep crack system I was looking at belonged to …

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Notch Peak with Niels Tietze.

By Mason Earle / Notch Peak, January 2015. My 5am alarm woke me up inside the van. Frosty windows. I really didn’t want to get out of my sleeping bag. I especially didn’t want to go and climb a 2000-foot chossy bigwall. All was silent outside. Maybe Niels forgot to …

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Trip Report: Cowboy Country

Sinks Canyon and Wild Iris (Lander, WY) / Travel Time from SLC: 4.5 Hours / Climbing Type: Mostly sport climbing on dolomite with sandstone and granite in the area. Welcome to the wild west of rock climbing. Perhaps I am stereotyping, but there seems to be an appropriate connection between Wyoming’s cowboy …

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5.14 Onsight at 14: Kai Lightner goes to Maple with Team Momentum

On August 16th, Team Momentum took North Carolina youth climbing prodigy Kai Lightner to The Pipe Dream in Maple Canyon. The 14-year-old endurance master casually and methodically crawled upwards past hang-dogging climbers on the near horizontal roof of the cave. He seemed to be walking through climbs most mortals spend …

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Learning from Failures

Story by Nik Berry After clipping the chains on a long-term project, you’re flooded with pure joy, contentment and mental freedom. Success in climbing gives climbers incredible feelings; however, successes also show what we are capable of. Once a climber has climbed a certain grade they should be able to …

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Mt. Hooker

by Nik Berry Lisiniopril reduces hypertension and cardiac workload.  Aluminum Hydroxide neutralizes stomach acid. Salmeterol prevents something.  I stared at 160 drug flash cards for hours.  I kept Nostalgia Coffee Shop in business studying the absurd names for my pharmacology final. Between studying, I dreamed of climbing.  I stared at …

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