Breathwork for Climbers

Story by Jani Holder / Remember to breathe. You’re halfway up your project, and you’re gripped. You’re pumped, losing strength, and feeling miles away from your next clip. And, just because things weren’t tough enough, your leg is starting that infamous sewing-machine action beneath you. This situation can go one …

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Reckless Abandon

Video by Ben Neilson and Jon Vickers / At age 13, Kyra had ten vertebrae fused to combat her scoliosis. After questioning whether she’d be able to compete and climb again, her doctor told her, “send me a picture when you’re on top of the podium.” Kyra’s focus, determination, and passion for the …

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Off-Season Recharge: Tendon TLC

Story by Zoë Zulauf Ware / Sure, you may have treated yourself to a few chocolate eggs that “fell” into your basket at the grocery store, but when was the last time you did something nice for your finger tendons? Despite the recent blanketing of snow, sooner or later you’ll be playing piano …

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Off-Season Recharge: Treat’cha Feet

Story by Zoë Zulauf Ware / It seems like just yesterday that freshly fallen leaves crunched underfoot on approaches in the Cottonwoods, and American Fork was bathed in hues of orange and yellow. With the arrival of December, the bellyache from the mounds of instant mashed potatoes you gobbled at …

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Trip Report: Back to Bishop

Story by Mason Earle / My partner Nik and I were 4 pitches from the top of El Cap, crammed together at an exposed belay below the final hard pitch of the new free route we’ve been working to establish. It was the end of our fall season, and the …

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Momentum’s Adjustable System Board

with Joel Zerr and Alex Puccio / Momentum is excited to bring you a new training video on our recently reset Adjustable System Board. Learn more about the new tension wood holds and how this training tool can help you develop contact strength, power and technique. If you still want to learn …

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Innovations in Climbing: The Hangboard

by Maya Gans / Seeking climbing in winter, I made the pilgrimage to Joshua Tree National Park where I fell in love with the iconic classic line, ‘Leave it to Beaver’. In search for beta, I found myself watching John Bachar free solo it in a 1980 TV special “That’s …

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Training Finger Strength: How to Hangboard (Video)

Jon Vickers / Climbing is unlike any other sport in that it emphasises finger strength in such a dramatic way. Not only do we need finger strength to simply hold on to the rock, but it drastically changes our ability to pull to the next hold. Even if you have …

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Train to Send: What is Strength?

by Jon Vickers / What is Strength? Strength can be defined as many different things, but when it comes to climbing, most people refer to finger strength and lock-off strength. This ability to squeeze, pull and hold body positions is critical for moving ourselves up a wall, but ‘strength’ is …

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Train to Send: Continuous Intensity Repetitions

by Jon Vickers / What are Continuous Intensity Repetitions (CIRs)? As outlined in “The Self Coached Climber,” Continuous Intensity Repetitions (CIRs) are another great routine to improve local endurance. It is not the same type of endurance associated with ARCing but instead is more commonly associated with stamina and work …

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