Off-Season Recharge: Tendon TLC

Story by Zoë Zulauf Ware / Sure, you may have treated yourself to a few chocolate eggs that “fell” into your basket at the grocery store, but when was the last time you did something nice for your finger tendons? Despite the recent blanketing of snow, sooner or later you’ll be playing piano …

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Trench Warfare, Net Style

Story by Mason Earle / There is a circus net that lives in my attic. It’s 50 feet long and twenty feet wide, made from cheap paracord and old climbing ropes. I built it specifically for climbing––like a giant crash pad for free soloing. My original vision was to use …

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Off-Season Recharge: Treat’cha Feet

Story by Zoë Zulauf Ware / It seems like just yesterday that freshly fallen leaves crunched underfoot on approaches in the Cottonwoods, and American Fork was bathed in hues of orange and yellow. With the arrival of December, the bellyache from the mounds of instant mashed potatoes you gobbled at …

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Trip Report: Back to Bishop

Story by Mason Earle / My partner Nik and I were 4 pitches from the top of El Cap, crammed together at an exposed belay below the final hard pitch of the new free route we’ve been working to establish. It was the end of our fall season, and the …

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Winter Destination: Big Bend Boulders

by Jon Vickers / Drive Time: 3.5 hours Rock Type: Sandstone Discipline: Bouldering Grades: Sandbagged Camping: Across Road The skiers and snowboarders are rejoicing, but as the snow falls, local bouldering becomes more and more of a challenge. No doubt someone is out in Little Cottonwood with a heater and …

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10 Tips: Mason’s Beta On Big Walls

by Mason Earle / Thinking about climbing a big wall? Do you dream of spending days ascending an enormous wall, sleeping on portaledges, and watching as the ground grows distant until the trees look like toothpicks? Big wall climbing can be incredibly fun and rewarding— but it can also be …

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Local Classics: Cross-Eyed and Painless

by Jon Vickers / FA: Gordan Douglas/13a/Big Cottonwood/Quartzite/Draws (fixed?) According to me and my friends, Cross-Eyed and Painless is one of the best routes in the Wasatch, and I believe many others would agree. “Cross-Eyed” is a Gordan Douglas’ masterpiece that is one of the (not so) hidden gems in …

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Notch Peak with Niels Tietze.

By Mason Earle / Notch Peak, January 2015. My 5am alarm woke me up inside the van. Frosty windows. I really didn’t want to get out of my sleeping bag. I especially didn’t want to go and climb a 2000-foot chossy bigwall. All was silent outside. Maybe Niels forgot to …

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Escaping the Grind: Climbing Red Rock’s Crystal Dawn

by Nik Berry School had made me particularly antsy and I couldn’t wait to escape the safety and routine of school life. My day consisted of waking up early, driving to run on Bonneville Shoreline and sitting on my ass in school until all of the blood was pushed out leaving …

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5 Tips for 5 Cracks with Mason Earle

Article by Mason Earle / Photo by Jon Vickers November in Utah. This means a lot of things to different people- school, anticipation for snow, and thanksgiving. For me it has always meant crack climbing season. I have always been inspired by the linear purity of cracks; the passage formed …

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