‘SJ’: A Setter’s Story

Story by Jon Vickers / If you’ve climbed around Salt Lake in the last quarter century, it’s likely you know or at least have heard of Steven Jeffery–if not by name, you may know is initials, ‘SJ.’ Steven has developed many of the hardest boulder problems in the region and …

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Danny and The Offwidth Army

by Jon Vickers / You squeeze, push, and pull to try to expand your body to fill the void between the rock you’re swimming in. The size is wrong for any single body part to jam, so instead, you must resort to unusual combinations of body parts to create the …

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Remembering Mark Davis

by Chris Noble / Mark Andrew Davis was Momentum’s first contract member.  When the Sandy Gym opened in 2006 Mark was first in line for a membership. That’s where I met him, and his booming laugh and self-deprecating humor drew me immediately.  It was the beginning of a friendship that …

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Training Finger Strength: How to Hangboard (Video)

Jon Vickers / Climbing is unlike any other sport in that it emphasises finger strength in such a dramatic way. Not only do we need finger strength to simply hold on to the rock, but it drastically changes our ability to pull to the next hold. Even if you have …

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10 Tips: Mason’s Beta On Big Walls

by Mason Earle / Thinking about climbing a big wall? Do you dream of spending days ascending an enormous wall, sleeping on portaledges, and watching as the ground grows distant until the trees look like toothpicks? Big wall climbing can be incredibly fun and rewarding— but it can also be …

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Train to Send: What is Strength?

by Jon Vickers / What is Strength? Strength can be defined as many different things, but when it comes to climbing, most people refer to finger strength and lock-off strength. This ability to squeeze, pull and hold body positions is critical for moving ourselves up a wall, but ‘strength’ is …

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Momentum Stewardship: Learning Sustainable Trail Work

Momentum wants to support the local climbing community in any way that we can. That’s why our Regional Manager Chris McFarland and Regional Facilities Director Rich Connors decided to learn more about technical trail work from the SLCA and the Access Fund. In a this three day event, Chris and …

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Meet Alex Puccio and Joel Zerr

by Jon Vickers / We would like to introduce you to our newest Momentum staff members, Alex Puccio and Joel Zerr. With over 30 years of combined climbing experience, this talented couple from Boulder, CO, is getting after their new roles at Momentum and are excited to experience all the …

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Train to Send: Continuous Intensity Repetitions

by Jon Vickers / What are Continuous Intensity Repetitions (CIRs)? As outlined in “The Self Coached Climber,” Continuous Intensity Repetitions (CIRs) are another great routine to improve local endurance. It is not the same type of endurance associated with ARCing but instead is more commonly associated with stamina and work …

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Train to Send: ARCing at Momentum

by Jon Vickers / What is ARCing? ARCing (Aerobic Restoration and Capillarity) seems to be either loved or hated. Some claim it does nothing and others consider it a key part of their training regiment. Whether or not you believe in all of ARCing’s merits, it is undeniable that most …

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