5.14 Onsight at 14: Kai Lightner goes to Maple with Team Momentum

On August 16th, Team Momentum took North Carolina youth climbing prodigy Kai Lightner to The Pipe Dream in Maple Canyon. The 14-year-old endurance master casually and methodically crawled upwards past hang-dogging climbers on the near horizontal roof of the cave. He seemed to be walking through climbs most mortals spend …

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2014 Psicobloc Recap

by James Lucas On August 8th, Clif Bar held a $30,000 drag race between 32 of the world’s best climbers in Park City Utah. The second annual PsicoComp pitted climbers in a head to head battle on a 55 foot tall wall above an Olympic pool. With former winner Sasha …

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Psicocomp and the Fear of Falling

by James Lucas I grabbed the sloping hold three times but failed to commit. The twenty foot fall into the water below scared me. As I pawed at the hold, I thought about how I swam like a stone. My legs quivered a bit. I down climbed and stepped off …

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