Train to Send: ARCing at Momentum

by Jon Vickers / What is ARCing? ARCing (Aerobic Restoration and Capillarity) seems to be either loved or hated. Some claim it does nothing and others consider it a key part of their training regiment. Whether or not you believe in all of ARCing’s merits, it is undeniable that most …

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Train to Send: Volume Phase

by Jon Vickers / Train to Send: Phase 1 – Volume Building base fitness gradually prepares the body for more intense activity. In this case, you are preparing to train for the next several months before peaking for a summer trip or goal route. This base building phase acts as …

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Momentum’s Train to Send: Series Intro

by Jon Vickers / The Dreaded Plateau Remember when you learned to keep your arms straight or push with your legs? Maybe you learned to control your breathing, loosen your grip or just turn your hips and made a huge jump in climbing ability. You may have even jumped a …

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The Millcreek Training Deck

by Nik Berry / Many climbers have preconceived notions of training. Climbing is filled with great people, uplifting attitudes (well…..I guess that is debatable), lightheartedness and a supportive atmosphere. From what I have gathered speaking to people about training, they believe training will negate these positive characteristics. I understand this coming …

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Shanna and Rob Train Up

It was one crazy May day for Rob and Shanna. Two nights before, the two had driven the five hours in Shanna’s Xterra from Salt Lake to the Welcome Springs area outside of Saint George, UT. The two started at 7am and Shanna gave three burns to her project, The …

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Kai Lightner Visits Team Momentum

This fall Kai Lightner stopped in Salt Lake to visit his friends at Team Momentum after his victory at the Youth World Championships. Cole Bradburn and other Team Momentum members gave Kai the tour of some of the best climbing in the area and Kai attended several of the team’s …

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5 Tips for 5 Cracks with Mason Earle

Article by Mason Earle / Photo by Jon Vickers November in Utah. This means a lot of things to different people- school, anticipation for snow, and thanksgiving. For me it has always meant crack climbing season. I have always been inspired by the linear purity of cracks; the passage formed …

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S.M.A.R.T. Climbing Goals

by Jon Vickers Last year, my season started strong, but I ended my summer out of shape, injured and discouraged. ‘What did I do wrong?’ I asked myself. I had started the season completing a long term project as well as a couple more routes at my limit, but when …

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Momentum Training Tools: The Systems Wall

The Momentum System Wall from Momentum Climbing Gym on Vimeo.

Welcome to Momentum Climbing’s introduction to training series, episode one will show you how to use the System Wall available at Momentum Millcreek. The System Wall is an adjustable-angle wall for training specific moves and grips. With three grip levels and six angle adjustments the System Wall is a great tool for progressively challenging a climber of any level. Beginning climbers can use the adjustable steepness to progressively introduce themselves to more challenging angles. Advanced climbers can use the System Wall for specific power and power-endurance exercises to address their weaknesses. Stay tuned for more episodes explaining the powerful tools Momentum Climbing has for you to take your climbing to the next level.
For training plans and personalized coaching visit: http://www.stevemaischtraining.com
For plans to build your own wall and holds to outfit it visit: http://www.atomikclimbingholds.com

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Learning from Failures

Story by Nik Berry After clipping the chains on a long-term project, you’re flooded with pure joy, contentment and mental freedom. Success in climbing gives climbers incredible feelings; however, successes also show what we are capable of. Once a climber has climbed a certain grade they should be able to …

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