Justin Wood on Joe’s Valley Improvements

Story by Nik Berry Joes Valley is Utah’s most popular bouldering area.  I believe it has gained this popularity first and foremost from the Butterfinger donuts made daily by the Food Ranch in Orangeville and secondly from the aesthetic bullet hard sandstone.  As areas increase in popularity, mandatory changes must be made to maintain the […]

Justin Wood, Redfish Lake, ID

5 Tips for 5 Cracks with Mason Earle

Article by Mason Earle / Photo by Jon Vickers November in Utah. This means a lot of things to different people- school, anticipation for snow, and thanksgiving. For me it has always meant crack climbing season. I have always been inspired by the linear purity of cracks; the passage formed by a perfect split in […]


Inspiration Series: Drew Bedford

By Nik Berry On a morning in 1984, the “young and arrogant” Drew Bedford approached Monkeyfinger with his partner Roger Amory.  This was the first route either of them attempted in Zion National Park and they freed the existing aid line.  After the ascent, they found it difficult to grade the route.  They knew it […]

Drew Bedford on his route Orange Crush 5.13b

Ben Haas on Outlaws on the Run (5.6).

Trip Report: Cowboy Country

Sinks Canyon and Wild Iris (Lander, WY) / Travel Time from SLC: 4.5 Hours / Climbing Type: Mostly sport climbing on dolomite with sandstone and granite in the area. Welcome to the wild west of rock climbing. Perhaps I am stereotyping, but there seems to be an appropriate connection between Wyoming’s cowboy culture and a style of […]


5.14 Onsight at 14: Kai Lightner goes to Maple with Team Momentum

On August 16th, Team Momentum took North Carolina youth climbing prodigy Kai Lightner to The Pipe Dream in Maple Canyon. The 14-year-old endurance master casually and methodically crawled upwards past hang-dogging climbers on the near horizontal roof of the cave. He seemed to be walking through climbs most mortals spend their summers projecting. With little […]


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2014 Psicobloc Recap

by James Lucas On August 8th, Clif Bar held a $30,000 drag race between 32 of the world’s best climbers in Park City Utah. The second annual PsicoComp pitted climbers in a head to head battle on a 55 foot tall wall above an Olympic pool. With former winner Sasha Digulian on the mend with […]


Psicocomp and the Fear of Falling

by James Lucas I grabbed the sloping hold three times but failed to commit. The twenty foot fall into the water below scared me. As I pawed at the hold, I thought about how I swam like a stone. My legs quivered a bit. I down climbed and stepped off the wall, never committing to […]

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Dora's Route Pyramid

S.M.A.R.T. Climbing Goals

by Jon Vickers Last year, my season started strong, but I ended my summer out of shape, injured and discouraged. ‘What did I do wrong?’ I asked myself. I had started the season completing a long term project as well as a couple more routes at my limit, but when I tried to up the […]


Momentum Training Tools: The Systems Wall

The Momentum System Wall from Momentum Climbing Gym on Vimeo.

Welcome to Momentum Climbing’s introduction to training series, episode one will show you how to use the System Wall available at Momentum Millcreek. The System Wall is an adjustable-angle wall for training specific moves and grips. With three grip levels and six angle adjustments the System Wall is a great tool for progressively challenging a climber of any level. Beginning climbers can use the adjustable steepness to progressively introduce themselves to more challenging angles. Advanced climbers can use the System Wall for specific power and power-endurance exercises to address their weaknesses. Stay tuned for more episodes explaining the powerful tools Momentum Climbing has for you to take your climbing to the next level.
For training plans and personalized coaching visit: http://www.stevemaischtraining.com
For plans to build your own wall and holds to outfit it visit: http://www.atomikclimbingholds.com


Inspiration Series with Ellen Powick

Story by Nik Berry Ellen Powick first inspired me as I approached The Pipe Dream Cave in Maple.  Ellen was climbing a very steep route.  After looking in the guidebook I found out the route was 5.13c.   She made it look easier than the warmups.  Since this day, I have seen Ellen send many hard […]