S.M.A.R.T. Climbing Goals

by Jon Vickers Last year, my season started strong, but I ended my summer out of shape, injured and discouraged. ‘What did I do wrong?’ I asked myself. I had started the season completing a long term project as well as a couple more routes at my limit, but when I tried to up the […]

Dora's Route Pyramid

Momentum Training Tools: The Systems Wall

The Momentum System Wall from Momentum Climbing Gym on Vimeo.

Welcome to Momentum Climbing’s introduction to training series, episode one will show you how to use the System Wall available at Momentum Millcreek. The System Wall is an adjustable-angle wall for training specific moves and grips. With three grip levels and six angle adjustments the System Wall is a great tool for progressively challenging a climber of any level. Beginning climbers can use the adjustable steepness to progressively introduce themselves to more challenging angles. Advanced climbers can use the System Wall for specific power and power-endurance exercises to address their weaknesses. Stay tuned for more episodes explaining the powerful tools Momentum Climbing has for you to take your climbing to the next level.
For training plans and personalized coaching visit: http://www.stevemaischtraining.com
For plans to build your own wall and holds to outfit it visit: http://www.atomikclimbingholds.com


Inspiration Series with Ellen Powick

Story by Nik Berry Ellen Powick first inspired me as I approached The Pipe Dream Cave in Maple.  Ellen was climbing a very steep route.  After looking in the guidebook I found out the route was 5.13c.   She made it look easier than the warmups.  Since this day, I have seen Ellen send many hard […]


Salt Lake History of Climbing Gyms 1

For years Salt Lake City climbers have been pushing their limits in the Wasatch. As local climbers began to reach their physical limits, they developed circuits and training techniques that allowed them to develop and maintain the fitness needed to climb harder and harder routes. It wasn’t long before some climbers started to build tools […]


Learning from Failures

Story by Nik Berry After clipping the chains on a long-term project, you’re flooded with pure joy, contentment and mental freedom. Success in climbing gives climbers incredible feelings; however, successes also show what we are capable of. Once a climber has climbed a certain grade they should be able to climb other routes of the […]


Merril Bitter during one of his usually session at the Momentum in Sandy, UT.

Inspiration Series: Merrill Bittter

“All Static and No Dynamic” sums up Merrill Bitter’s climbing style and is one of many first ascents he established in the Wasatch.  Merrill a 60-year-old IME employee has been climbing for 37 years around Salt Lake City. Beyond establishing dozens of first ascents Merrill inspires Wasatch climbers with his incredibly positive attitude. You have […]


Mt. Hooker

by Nik Berry Lisiniopril reduces hypertension and cardiac workload.  Aluminum Hydroxide neutralizes stomach acid. Salmeterol prevents something.  I stared at 160 drug flash cards for hours.  I kept Nostalgia Coffee Shop in business studying the absurd names for my pharmacology final. Between studying, I dreamed of climbing.  I stared at Instagram pictures of  thin alpine […]

Hooker Topo

Brendan Nicholson climbing Golden Boy (5.13b) at the Red River Gorge.

What is ARCing? An Interview with Brendan Nicholson 1

Story by Jon Vickers Brendan Nicholson often takes a scientific approach to his training. With a passion for climbing and a curiosity about the human body, Brendan (Momentum setter ‘Brendan N.’) has researched and implemented a wide variety of training methods and tactics. As a busy designer and first time father, it is important that […]


Carlo Traversi Drills Team Momentum

A couple weeks ago pro climber, Carlo Traversi stopped by the gym to guest coach Team Momentum. Carlo, who has climbed many of the world’s hardest boulder problems, took the team through a series of drills intended to improve technique, increase body awareness and develop strength for their upcoming bouldering season. “We feel like it […]


2013 B2P Citizen’s Competition Results

Here are the scores from an awesome citizen’s competition. Thanks to all the sponsors and setters for helping to throw a fun event. Rec (Male) 1) Jaik Hakkarinen 9,790 2) Jaskson Callahan 9,000 3) Gordan Gygi 8,560 Rec (Female) 1) Anne Marie White 9,300 2) Laila Hakkarinen 8,540 Intermediate (Male) 1) JR Rowley 16,250 2) […]